One of the things that I have often remarked on (perhaps in this blog) is the diversity of lifestyles and incomes in Lusaka. Even though I have now lived in Lusaka for most of the last 14 months, I still often find myself having trouble wrapping my brain around this. I can drive through a neighborhood of huge fancy houses with swimming pools behind gates, and then quickly end up in a neighborhood crammed full of small houses sharing common toilets. I can have conversations with friends about appropriate salaries for expats working in development (similar to decent salaries in the US, and then add on generous housing allowances and international school tuition for children), and then conversations with head teachers about appropriate salaries for teachers at Zambian schools (somewhere between $100 and $500 a month). From these examples, though, don’t get the idea that it’s just the poor locals vs. the rich ex pats. There are certainly many (and increasing) signs of a wealthy Zambian population as well. Many fancy cars, and a racial mix of clientele at expensive restaurants. The money just isn’t well distributed. Now, some of you might now want to remind me that the money isn’t well distributed in the US either. This is true, but the situation (in Seattle at least) isn’t nearly as extreme. There seems to be a much higher percentage of people in Lusaka living on the cast-offs of the wealthy (used milk jugs, used clothing), and willing to work for the wealthy for peanuts (car wash = $1, car security while shopping in town = 50 cents).
Despite my shock, however, I must confess that I find it increasingly easy to get drawn into the “posh” life. Having become bored with the peanut butter sandwiches that are the only easy lunch food to carry in the heat, I find myself eating out much more. Dinners out with friends are also a nice social opportunity. I’ll also confess to seeing the attraction to life behind a gate with a peaceful garden and a swimming pool. I have enjoyed having a few opportunities this spring to visit and attend parties in such environs. How comfortable the host is with their exclusivity seems to depend on how long they have been in Zambia. The wealthy Zambians (white and black) seem to take this all in stride, feeling that it is their right to have succeeded in life, and their duty to protect their assets and their family. The more recent arrivals seem to have some guilt feelings about their relative wealth, but yet recognize that this comfort and safety is important for them to be able continue to enjoy doing the good work they are doing (often in development) in Zambia. Can’t blame em.
Here’s a posh activity that I was able to do last Sunday: I went with a couple of friends to Lilayi Lodge, a lovely game lodge just south of Lusaka for an outing. We began by taking a long walk (was going to be 2 hours, but we got a bit lost so it was 3…) in their game reserve. We saw loads of wildlife including giraffes, impala, kudu, bush buck, eland, waterbuck, zebra, various birds, and some lizards doing their thing (check out the photo). Then it was time for a dip in the swimming pool, followed by the buffet lunch. The buffet cost $25 (ouch!), but was really yummy. This weekend’s posh activity was joining a group celebrating a friend’s birthday by having fancy cocktails at an Italian restaurant overlooking the polo grounds. They had just come from attending a fashion show. Not my thing, but definitely another sign that business development is happening in Lusaka!
Despite my shock, however, I must confess that I find it increasingly easy to get drawn into the “posh” life. Having become bored with the peanut butter sandwiches that are the only easy lunch food to carry in the heat, I find myself eating out much more. Dinners out with friends are also a nice social opportunity. I’ll also confess to seeing the attraction to life behind a gate with a peaceful garden and a swimming pool. I have enjoyed having a few opportunities this spring to visit and attend parties in such environs. How comfortable the host is with their exclusivity seems to depend on how long they have been in Zambia. The wealthy Zambians (white and black) seem to take this all in stride, feeling that it is their right to have succeeded in life, and their duty to protect their assets and their family. The more recent arrivals seem to have some guilt feelings about their relative wealth, but yet recognize that this comfort and safety is important for them to be able continue to enjoy doing the good work they are doing (often in development) in Zambia. Can’t blame em.
Here’s a posh activity that I was able to do last Sunday: I went with a couple of friends to Lilayi Lodge, a lovely game lodge just south of Lusaka for an outing. We began by taking a long walk (was going to be 2 hours, but we got a bit lost so it was 3…) in their game reserve. We saw loads of wildlife including giraffes, impala, kudu, bush buck, eland, waterbuck, zebra, various birds, and some lizards doing their thing (check out the photo). Then it was time for a dip in the swimming pool, followed by the buffet lunch. The buffet cost $25 (ouch!), but was really yummy. This weekend’s posh activity was joining a group celebrating a friend’s birthday by having fancy cocktails at an Italian restaurant overlooking the polo grounds. They had just come from attending a fashion show. Not my thing, but definitely another sign that business development is happening in Lusaka!
2 comments:
Thanks for your thoughtful post. I think we do have a similar disparity in the US (As part of my job, I visit lakeside homes, and some are really VERY posh) but not the same numbers of people on the extremes. It is much easier to go about life and not see the extremes here.
Nice photo, too.
Heidi you have expressed so well the feelings that so many have when they incounter the real world outside of their own little onclave. I have no answers to the dilemas you so beautifully outlined. I know that your grandfather, my Dad, reacted by becoming a true socialist and felt that there should be a purposeful redistribution of wealth to improve the state of the world. He tried to live his sentiments. Your grandmother, my mother, reacted in a very different way through her feelings that there is a priveledged class whose obligation it is to improve others through their actions and charitable giving. Many a dinner table conversation in someway or another came back to the discussions of these values. I suppose the cop out reaction to this delema is that what ever ones view point is, the common goal should be to dimininsh or eliminate poverty of education, goods and spirit in whatever way one can. Thanks and keep up your good work, Your loving and also dilema ridden Dad
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